A voudun fetish market in a village on the way to Ganvie -- you can see the carcasses of leopard and other wild cats and protected species in this particular market stall, along with python skins. Someone I know watched a vendor cut the head off a tabby kitten, gut it, and skin it here -- they use all kinds of animals in the rituals.
And those last three stills: en route to, and inside the village of Ganvie, which was founded in the 1700s as a refuge for people of the Tofinu ethnic group. They were trying to avoid being captured by the dominant, warring Dahomey ethnic group, who sold captives into the slave trade. The entire village is built on stilts, over the water. About 30,000 people live here now, I'm told. Everything is water, there's not really any land. Everyone moves around on the boats you see here, and even the market where women sell fish and cassava and herbs and fruits -- all of that is on boats, sitting in the water.
The women here traditionally wear intricate tattooing on their bodies, and some tattooing and scarification on their faces. As we were pulling up to the one shop/hotel/whatever that welcomes tourists, another boat pulled right up next to us, paddled by a beautiful tattooed/scarred young woman selling some kind of sweet starchy bread balls. I think the thing I'll remember most about Ganvie might be watching her flirt with and bat her eyelashes at our Beninois fixer/driver, who sat next to me on the boat.
There are a lot of really fascinating things about how daily life in this community works. One of these is how they farm fish. This lake, Lake Nokoué, is actually hard for things to grow in, so each family plants reeds to form "plots" in the water, to encourage fish to nest and breed there. The plots are carefully guarded and tended -- it's hard for me to imagine how they tell them apart, it's not like they have signs on them or something. If one family's plot is doing really well, they might sell the amount of fish beyond what they need to survive. If another family isn't doing well, they might work as laborers on a more successful family's plot.
I'll be traveling to a more remote, northern part of the country tomorrow, and maybe into Burkina Faso and Niger. I probably won't have good enough connectivity to blog much for the next 4-5 days. But I'll probably text some short stuff to Twitter, and I'll share more quick snaps soonest when back among the wired. And, eventually, video.