Alcatraz Island, a tourist attraction that exceeds all expectations

Alcatraz Island is one of those tourist traps that isn't a trap at all. It is that rare thing: a justifiably famous tourist attraction that lives up to its reputation and exceeds it. When I lived in San Francisco, I relished the chance to take out-of-towners there and re-visit it myself.

The site itself is exceptionally beautiful, a rugged wilderness island in the middle of the San Francisco Bay with unparalleled views of the city. The cellhouse audio tour -- a self-guided tour featuring the narration of former inmates and guards -- is brilliantly produced (I actually bought a copy on cassette years ago and listened to it at home). And the additional museum materials, including a moving film on the history of the Indian occupation, are also superb.

The Alcatraz website does a good job of conveying much of this, but you really have to go to experience it.

Alcatraz Island - Golden Gate National Recreation Area (Thanks, Ranger Craig!)

I write books. My latest is a YA science fiction novel called Homeland (it's the sequel to Little Brother). More books: Rapture of the Nerds (a novel, with Charlie Stross); With a Little Help (short stories); and The Great Big Beautiful Tomorrow (novella and nonfic). I speak all over the place and I tweet and tumble, too.

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hijukal

I’ll be checking it out in about three weeks on the first tour of the day.

Anyone got any insider tips or special things that most people overlook/miss?
Zombie

My little cousin was very nearly born on Alcatraz. Her mother, despite all warnings not too, went on a weekend getaway to San Fransisco at the beginning of her eighth month. She went into labor after the visit to the famous prison island.
planettom

This was referenced slyly above, but for those who haven’t seen it, I recommend the scene in the Mike Myers movie SO I MARRIED AN AXE MURDERER where Phil Hartman plays a tour guide on Alacatraz like none other.
ganesh

I just went to Alcatraz for the first time last week, and I was rather disappointed that the most intriguing period in the island’s history – the Native American Occupation – was almost an afterthought in presentation.

The Discovery short film you can watch in the theater is the only place where it is even mentioned, and while the documentary alludes to there beings signs and markings left from the occupation, you can’t see them highlighted anywhere in the accessible areas. In fact the only prominent remnant visible to tourists, the “Indians Welcome…Indian Land” marking on the wall at the dock has been partly obscured by a sign the Parks service has placed over it.

It’s rather sad given the lavish production and attention given to the prison tour.
Hellosluggo

I made my second trek to Alcatraz in May (the first was back in May 1999), and shot a ton of photos in which I was trying to see the island (and the prison) from the perspective of the inmates. That was my idea, anyway. I haven’t even looked at the photos yet, so maybe this articles is just the kick in the butt I need to get busy on them.
Anonymous

It’s worth noting that in the summer the trip is booked up days in advance so make sure you plan and book ahead.
knodi

Wow, how did I survive 30 years with the misconception that Alcatraz was on the east coast?

bviously I’ve never been, but next time I’m out west I’ll look it up. And thanks for filling in a shameful little gap in my knowledge!
3lbFlax

Ah, Alcatraz. It was awesome, but my main recollection is getting there and wandering around with a strong, inexplicable and disorienting feeling of deja-vu – until I realised that I was having flashbacks to Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater 4 and its Alcatraz level. The realisation was like being nudged gently back into sync with reality.
Anonymous

This was the ONE thing I really wanted to do on a birthday trip to SF. The boat ride to the island was a great way to get out on the water and see the city and the audio tour was a blast. Loved the sounds added in the background to make it feel like inmates were all around you. Next time we go we’re doing a specialty tour.
icky2000

If you can’t actually visit Alcatraz, you can at least watch this short video that gives you a good sense for the place:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmFVeeLL01c
dculberson

I loved it, but it really smelled terrible. All the gull poop, I guess. It’s still totally awesome and a must-see.
buboes_in_diplopia

One tip: Watch out for the seagulls. They have wicked aim, and the bathrooms do not have paper towels.
Anonymous

Eddie Izzard and Alcatraz…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwyJk_TfvqQ
donatolla

I’ll always remember my visit to Alcatraz. After having been to SF many times, but never planning ahead enough, I finally planned to fly in earlier to see what I can only see in movies staring Clint Eastwood and various Discovery channel specials.

It is an amazing experience – I was really taken aback by the erosion and decay. You just don’t see that in the brochure. It is probably the most public abandoned place an amateur photographer can go to to take some really interesting pictures.
Bill Simmon

I have to chime in and concur that Eastern State (in Philadelphia) is a fantastic prison tour. Steve Buscemi narrates the audio tour. So good.
lulamaegirl

Sunset or nighttime tours are definitely the best.

Also, it was a complete stroke of luck, but on the day we went, they had opened up the hospital wing, too. We could tell it wasn’t something they did all the time and it must be planned in advance (there were lots of people there just to get into the wing), but it was amazing. The peeling paint and outdated medical equipment really add to the creepiness of the wing, especially when you realize that, with a few notable exceptions, anyone who died in Alcatraz did it in the hospital wing.

And ditto to @Donatolla… I’m not even a great photographer, but you can’t help but get some amazing and atmospheric shots there. It’s an oddly beautiful place.
Keith

Haven’t been to Alcatraz yet but next time you’re in Ireland, do drop by Kilmainham Gaol in Dublin. It’s the prison where they sent the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising.

Another fine disused penitentiary is Eastern State in Philly. They do one of the best haunted houses every Halloween. Genuinely spooky.
airshowfan

Once I went to Alcatraz on the very first boat, and then ran up to the prison buildings as soon as I could, to shoot some wide-angle pictures with no tourists in them. Few other places are as bleak, and make for pictures that are as moving. Except maybe for the abandoned buildings that Urban Exploration people visit.

Yes, the audio tour is awesome. I have taken it a few times now.

And #50 is absolutely right: Terrific view of Fleet Week:

http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php/topic,7642.msg162522.html#msg162522

http://www.fencecheck.com/forums/index.php?topic=12072.msg204359#msg204359

One thing to keep in mind is that some parts of the island (including seemingly all the areas that have a nice view of the airshow) are infested with flies around that time of year. The flies aren’t dangerous or anything, they’re just very very annoying. I wore my hoodie’s hood up, and pulled the sleeves over my fingers, so as to not feel the flies crawling all over me.

(Why do I have my airshow pictures up online but not those bleak, tourist-less, wide-angle pictures? Must do some digging around in my external HD when I get home).
phquaryn

Now this is something the other tour guides won’t tell you. In this particular cell-block, Machine Gun Kelly had what we call in the prison system, a “bitch”. And one night in a jealous rage Kelly took a make-shift knife or “shiv”, and cut out the bitch’s eyes. And as if this wasn’t enough retribution for Kelly, the next day he and four other inmates took turns pissing into the bitch’s ocular cavities.

This way to the cafeteria!
DWittSF

I spent a night in a cell at Alcatraz…because I worked on the new audio tour production, which came out a year or so ago. We had to do the work at night, after the tourists left. Needless to say, it was an amazing experience, where we recreated riots and scenes of prison life. The creepiest part was visiting the infirmary at about 2am, close by the Birdman’s solitary cell. Also, I found out more recently that the tribal elders of AIM perform a sacred ritual on Alcatraz every Thanksgiving, at dawn.
FreakCitySF

!!!!Spoiler Alert!!!
The birdman never had birds while at Alcatraz.
Johnny Cat

How coincidentally odd…I awoke this morning and the name Stanley Goodspeed inexplicably popped into my head. I think the last time I saw that movie was right after visiting Alcatraz 9 years ago, and yes it was awesome.
Brainspore

I enjoyed the tour, but was a little disappointed that they didn’t show the fire maze thing or the watery catacombs or the mine cart cave where Sean Connery and Nicolas Cage fought all those terrorists in “The Rock.”

Maybe I’ll have better luck on my visit to D.C. next year. I’m really looking forward to seeing that secret treasure map on the back of the Declaration of Independence.
teleny

I love the tale of the kindly warden that had the insides painted in “soothing colors”. Not much of a comfort, but I’m sure it was appreciated.
Anonymous

I have visited Alcatraz twice and I highly recommend it. One note of caution I would sound is that both times when I went to buy my ticket, they were sold out for that day and I had to come back the next day to take the tour. It wasn’t a problem but something worth considering if you are only in town for the day.

What I really enjoyed about the experience is that while your ferry ride over to the island is for a specific time, your return trip isn’t. I liked not having to keep looking at my watch.

AndyM
numlokâ„¢

Mapjack has some pretty amazing coverage of Alcatraz (and other remote SF locations as well): http://www.mapjack.com/?sPNnW6e4bFVC
It’s about the closest thing I’ve found to an actual visit.
Enjoy!
amycamus

I agree that the audio tour is spectacularly produced and a visit is worthwhile. But I sincerely wish they’d tear that thing down. I loathe looking out onto beautiful San Francisco bay and seeing a prison (even a non-operative one) in the middle of it.
Anonymous

In 1995 I went for a 5th grade class fieldtrip/ vacation. I think we called it Poop Patrol Island. Loved the audio tour. I was freaked out most of the time (by the tour and the birds.) It was great!
Anonymous

I would highly recommend the last tour, the nighttime tour. With the fog rolling in and the glittering lights of the city in the distance, you get a real creepy feeling and understanding the terrible weight that place had for its residents.

And then there’s the discontinuity of thinking of all the guard’s families and kids who lived out there too!
Anonymous

Amy,

If you don’t mind me asking, what is wrong with seeing a prison in the middle of the bay? Isn’t it just an old historic building?
fangbaby

I found it neat, but not mind blowing… until I stepped into the solitary cell for a minute or so with the door closed.

That is freaky. Worth the rest of the trip.
alcatraz

I am a big fan of Alcatraz Island. The Fall is the best time to visit, in my opinion. Especially during a special event like Fleet Week.

Fleet Week 2009 is set for October 8th thru the 13th. One of the best views in the city is on Alcatraz Island, but tickets sell out fast.

When tickets are sold out to Alcatraz, there are sometimes combo tickets available that include a trip to Angel Island. Most people do not know this, so keep that in mind if you are shopping online and don’t find tickets for the date you need.
RangerCraig

To ganesh re: the American Indian Occupation of Alcatraz. Sadly you apparently missed the award winning WE HOLD THE ROCK video exhibit which is on the island which covers in some detail the 1969 occupation by Indians of All Tribes which, in fact, saved the tribes from termination.

Another good video (which features a lot of the same footage) is ALCATRAZ IS NOT AN ISLAND which often shows on PBS affiliates in the month of November, and which is available for sale on the island.

None of the graffiti at the dock was obscured by the sign the Park Service recreated, the original sign which had graffiti on it was destroyed by US Marshals after they removed the occupiers in 1971. When I first sarting working on the island what you saw (with out the sign there) was just the grafitti left by the Marshals after they tore down the red clenched fist that had been painted over the original sign. It read LA and SACTO, apparently in reference to agents from the LA and Sacramento offices?

One significant piece of occupation graffiti has been restored by the Park Service, the word FREE in the shield above the cellhouse front entrance. It was restored for the 30th anniverserary of the occupation.
Anonymous

I loved Alcatraz and it seemed like a very humble place. It looked very much unchanged and in disrepair which only added to the overall feel of the place. In fact, it occurred to me that they weren’t milking that place for all its worth. If I owned it I would add themed restaurants, themed bars (Iron Bar? Bars Bar?), a chance to spend the night in a cell, reenactments, fireworks, etc. Basically, you know, completely sell out.
apoxia

Argh, I’ve been to SF twice this year and both times decided to do something other than go to alcatraz.
chrisnixon

I visited Alcatraz about five years ago while over there. It was really worthwhile. Consider going on the sunset tour. You’ll get some great photographs of the Golden Gate, plus it really adds to the atmosphere of the tour.
ggertz

Recently went to Eastern States Penitentiary http://www.easternstate.org/ and it was AWESOME. The most tourist fun I have ever had.

Planning to go back for the Haunted House they run there in the fall.
Anonymous

Hmmm. Strange. Friends from the bay area always told me that Alcatraz wasn’t worth the time. I’ll have to give it a chance when I head back north. If it’s half as good as the Beat Museum I’ll be satisfied.
washizu

I agree. Alcatraz was better than I expected. I had no idea Native Americans took it over for a while in 1969 until I visited.
alicebt

I went when I was a kid and remember the tour had a real person guiding us. They even gave us a chance to stand in one of the cells and spend a minute or two locked in. It was such a bleak unhappy place and so beautiful on the outside. I can just imagine how much that would make the prisoners heart’s ache.
eggoeater

Definitely worth while. The audio tour is great. It usually nice and cool being in the bay but bring sunscreen; there’s much to see outside and I got sunburned.
Maddy

Sometimes, when the rest of the world all likes something –you just might like it to! And you won’t lose your hip status. I had the best time at Alacatraz, and I also recommend The Mansfield Pen in Mansfield, Ohio. The filmed a movie their called “The Shawshank Redemption” …
Anonymous

Definitely check out the sunset tour. They demonstrate the operation of the cell doors and you get a chance to look in the case where the levers reside. The whole system is mechanical, and very cool. According to our tour guide, the system is still in use in some other prisons today. The sound the doors make when they crash shut is pretty crazy too.
michaelc

I was lucky enough to visit about 10 years ago when I lived in the area. As well as the self-guided tour, there were sometimes tour guides who had worked as prison wardens there.
Steve Schnier

Most tourist attractions are just bleh. But some (my guess is that they’re run by The National Park Service) are outstanding.

If you’re in San Juan, Puerto Rico – be sure to check out the fortresses: Morro and Cristobel ($5 admission for both). Both are spectacular in their own ways.

For corporate museums, be sure to visit The Bacardi Museum/Factory Tour. Free admission. Free Mojitos and one of the finest museums you’ll ever visit. Also in San Juan.
geobarefoot

Alcatraz also has a fantastic garden that few know about. I highly recommend a trip to Angel Island, too. Great history, great views, and the ability to camp over night in the middle of SF bay.
tomservojr

I can’t recommend the nighttime tour highly enough. We visited on a night with heavy fog, choppy waters in the bay, and light rain – stepping off the ferry, it was almost unbearably creepy. The audio tour is excellent, and the sound of an entire row of cell doors slamming shut at once is something I’ll never forget.
dimethirwen

I visited Alcatraz when I first moved to the Bay Area last year, and I just loved it. I usually hate guided tours, but the audio tour was absolutely fantastic.

Some photos I took:

http://picasaweb.google.com/carmen.machado/Alcatraz?feat=directlink
Anonymous

When I achieve total consciousness and have the universe at my control, one of the first things I’m going to do is have Phil Hartman / Shirley give me a tour of Alcatraz.
Anonymous

Agreed. I was out there for Chinese New Year 07 and had a fantastic time on the tour. Found myself watching all of the supplemental films downstairs and shooting tons of photos. The walking tour using former wardens and inmates was top notch.
Kimmo

@#14
“Alcatraz is a sad and miserable place. Anyone that gets enjoyment from reliving the misery of a bunch of miserable people is a little off in my opinion. Alcatraz was a prison – prisons are made to punish bad people. Not too much to enjoy in all that.”

I’m inclined to agree, but I’m not sure the ‘bad people’ all deserve such punishment, and I can tell you what there is to enjoy:

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0079116/
Anonymous

Alcatraz is a sad and miserable place. Anyone that gets enjoyment from reliving the misery of a bunch of miserable people is a little off in my opinion. Alcatraz was a prison – prisons are made to punish bad people. Not too much to enjoy in all that.
Beverly Stayart

Thanks for the photos — almost as good as visiting!