Rustoleum Epoxy Appliance Paint

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16 Responses to “Rustoleum Epoxy Appliance Paint”

  1. Anonymous says:

    I used their high-heat paint on non-stainless exhaust pipes when replacing them so they wouldn’t get rusted up. It worked great.

  2. Anonymous says:

    Interesting to see an epoxy coating that doesn’t need to be mixed with an “activator” first.

  3. codesuidae says:

    This stuff is great. I painted a clothing washing machine and my laptop with it.

  4. Anonymous says:

    This stuff is great! I used it to paint the handrest on my Logitech DiNovo where the finish had worn through. Looks great! Very smooth, durable finish. And easy to clean!

    I tried using a bit to touch up a white stove top and it didn’t fare that well under high heat and browned a bit.

  5. the.arctic says:

    I’ve used this on everything from a rusty motorcycle kickstand to an old filing cabinet. It goes on really glossy, but it’s so durable you can wear the finish a bit (after it dries, obviously) so that it will match something that’s been around the block a few times.

  6. nixiebunny says:

    So it would be good for graffiti that you really want to stick around for a long time.

    • johan,karlskrona says:

      Yes. And their matted fluorescent colors, that’s used by workers on asphalt to temorary direct traffic, really glows and is quite heavy duty.

  7. Quibbler says:

    Yes I’ve used this. It’s not that good as it is difficult to get an even coat that covers. I also is not all that hard, but I’ve not had the yellowing problems others have experienced.

  8. JavaMoose says:

    Forget the grill paint for high-heat applications. I’ve used it, it doesn’t last. For durability I’ve been using VHT products for a while now, when cured properly, it’s close to indestructible.

    The FlameProof I’ve used on motorcycle exhausts and they still look excellent (far more heat than a grill will see).

    Link http://www.vhtpaint.com/flameproof.html

    No, I don’t work for VHT, I just remember being very frustrated will the “high temp” grill paint’s performance. YMMV, etc.

  9. teufelsdroch says:

    Just have to register:

    I am surely not the only person who cringes every time he sees one of these posts.

    In fact, I am certain every one of them would be flooded with negative comments, if you didn’t delete them as soon as you see them.

    • SamSam says:

      Actually, I don’t cringe, and BB doesn’t generally just delete negative posts, so I think yours was the only one.

      Though this may look like advertising, it’s not. It’s cross-posting from the very cool site, CoolTools.

      Some people actually appreciate being given real reviews about products that have really worked for them. Others can just skip all the posts with the words “CoolTools” at the top, if they like.

  10. Sam says:

    It’s not epoxy paint, it’s “Epoxy” paint. Actual epoxy paint comes in two, non-spray can, parts and is expensive. Dries to the touch in a couple hours and you can hit it with a hammer the next day. I use it for floors, appliances, cabinets, tiles, plastic, bath tubs, showers, glass, pretty much anything regular paint won’t stick to properly. You can also use it to prime a surface and coat it with traditional paint afterwards (with a lil prep work).

    A two gallon kit from my local paint store costs about $80. ‘Course $6-9 for one spray can of “Epoxy” paint isn’t cheap either.

    • Anonymous says:

      I used to work for the company that supplies the paint for just about every white appliance made. They were the only ones that could keep it from turning yellow in the gas-fired curing ovens. Most of the coatings were coated using electrodeposition and the rest was powder. The electrodeposited coatings were an acrylic and not epoxy because epoxy does turn yellow in sunlight. Epoxy based coatings are very anti-corrosive and lots and lots of primers are epoxy coatings. For instance, every car that gets an ED primer is epoxy.
      But both of those terms described how the polymers that made up the coating were created, whether with epoxy or acrylic backbones. Most of the coatings were cured via acrylic – NCO bonds.

  11. dr says:

    I used this on a refrigerator in my last house, the paint started yellowing/browning (unevenly) in around a year. Still, it was an easy temporary cosmetic fix.

    • Anonymous says:

      ive painted several refrigerators with this stuff over the years to only see it yellow in about a year. its also very finicky and will bubble up if it touches other epoxy or the surface isnt clean enough.

  12. jeligula says:

    Most excellent information. I was wondering what I was going to do about the refrigerator in the place I am renting. It was new when I moved in and still works very well. The inside is clean, but the outside is discolored and rusted in a few spots, because I didn’t take care of it. You just saved me from having to buy a new refrigerator.

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