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Review: Blue Microphones' Yeti Pro

Rob Beschizza at 1:05 pm Mon, May 30, 2011

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yetiproooo.jpgBlue Microphones' Yeti Pro adds XLR sockets, and the promise of pro-quality results, to the USB-only original. It has three capsules, with settings for stereo, cardioid, omnidirectional, and bidirectional recording; a built-in headphone amplifier for latency-free monitoring; and dials to control gain and headphone volume. There's also a mute button. The most striking thing about the $250, 24bit/192kHz Yeti Pro is its huge size compared to most mics: it's as big as a beercan and weighs 3 1/2 pounds when attached to the bundled desk stand. It's pretty, though, and looks and feels extremely sturdy. The quality is far better than inexpensive audio-jack mics, and audibly so compared to USB models I've used such as M-Audio's Producer. It is more expensive, however, and the differences will be most clear to musicians rather than, say, casual podcasters. Indeed, unless you're already planning to wed it to studio gear for one reason or another, the XLR outputs (which require 48v phantom power from a pre-amp) will only sit there encouraging you to buy some so that you may. It worked on Windows and OSX without any faffing around, though on the Mac, the monitoring jack also worked as a 24bit/192kHz audio output for the computer, which is nice. The only problem I had was it recording too quiet at first, even with the gain up. The fix was to turn the mic gain and headphone volume to zero and cycle the mute button. Since then, it's been fine. Blue Yeti Pro Multipattern Condenser Microphone (Amazon link) Product Page

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  • lasttide

    I don’t understand the draw of this product. Here’s why:

    1. It’s huge and heavy. Portability can’t be the reason to buy this when a m-audio or presonus pre weighs about a pound, costs $100 and is about as big as a MM paperback.

    2. It’s expensive. For the same price you can get a SM57, a at3035 and a firewire stereo interface. You will then be set for just about any situation with decent results. This is also scaleable.

  • Rob Beschizza

    BT Murtagh, just grab a cheap USB M-Audio for less than $100. It’ll be fine. If you don’t like the idea of USB, something $50 ish by Audio Technica will also be fine.

    • Anonymous

      Hehe, Rob you live here and you still got caught with the less than symbol — could the interface maybe detect a space or an *a space* to fix that? :D

      • Antinous / Moderator

        HTML is interpreted by browsers.

        But MT does have a bad habit of randomly changing a coded-in less-than sign to a hard less-than sign.

  • Anonymous

    I have the non pro version. And I love it.

    God forbid you have a problem with it though. When I tried to contact Blue via their web page nothing happened. Not even after a few tries. They did add me to their mailings list quicker then lightning using the address I provided. But addressing my issue was apparently to much hassle.

  • futnuh

    Rob, do you think the mic is ruggedized enough for museum/science-centre use? I’ve seen kids break things that were considered “industrial” so the acceptance bar is pretty high. Actually, the fact that the mic has exposed knobs and connectors probably answers my own question ;-)

    • arikol

      No
      This mic is NOT ruggedised, and neither is any other dynamic mic.
      As microphones rely on very sensitive diaphragms that can vibrate they will all be sensitive to abuse, but dynamic mics hold up better to abuse.
      Professional quality does NOT mean strong and rugged. It only means high audio quality, and well put together.

      The SHURE SM58 mics are well known for toughness, but other cheaper dynamics may be your best bet. (I havea Sennheiser e8155 which the kids can play around with, drool into, and drop on the floor. It would STILL only survive a day-and-a-half if a bunch of kids could get it out of the stand and muck about with it).

      Note that with a dynamic mic you will need a decent amp, and do NOT turn on phantom power if a dynamic mic is connected up.

  • Rob Beschizza

    No idea, sorry! I’m between linuxes.

  • hadlock

    Alternately there is the Xenyx 302 USB which is ~$35 on amazon and has a variety of XLR and RCA inputs with headphone monitor and multiple mixer controls. Pair it with a Sure SM57 or SM58 microphone and you have a “broadcast quality” setup for $135 shipped free from amazon.

    http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/302USB.aspx

    I’ve been using the bigger brother Xenyx 802 with a UCA202 RCA->USB adapter for four years now (the sub-$100 USB out option didn’t exist then) and a variety of microphones and it works flawlessly.

  • betatron

    Blue does a nice job of wrapping their tech in a beautiful package. I almost bought one but ended up getting a Zoom H4n. It’s part of my (cough) EDC, along with a sackful of SD cards and AA batteries.

    Pretty much regardless of the model/mfr, the recorders available these days are insanely excellent.

  • buddha

    Firstly, the nature of a phantom powered condenser mic is picking up sound pressures that are very low because the powered coil is able to transfer more energy. Hence the guy with the dog claw sound under his geetar..

    To minimize outside noise, switch to cardioid, and lower the gain appropriately. The mic gain should be set to center, and the software input set to 30 for loud sounds and 80 for high gain.

    Monitor level for the the software should be at 100% and trim the output on the mic. If you are just starting out with a condenser, or any mic, turn your monitor way down and talk into the mic while slowly ramping the headphone volume until it is comfortable. if you begin with a loud headphone volume you will have a HuGe tendency to whisper into the mic rather than use full voice.

    Linux users will be sad when it doesn’t monitor from the mic…and then they will be happy when they realize installing GNOME ALSA Mixer, and un-muting the mic…you can use Jack, but i have used the GNOME ALSA Mixer and it worked like spookie action at a distance..

    ipad or ipod or iphone users can buy the camera adapter kit and use this badboy in stereo highgain outside without the sound of a computer fan.

    Hey if you don’t need XLR and you can do without the retro color trim, buy the original yeti. the condensers are the same, and you will save some dough…to buy a wind screen, a mic stand and some suspension.

    D

  • cubby96

    Funny, a microphone is not what I think of when I see the words Yeti Pro.
    http://www.discgolfcenter.com/main_displayProduct.php?p=599

  • geekd

    Blue makes good stuff.

    If you have a “bad” room acoustically, or you’re picking up air conditioning hum or other background noise, look into this:

    http://www.harlanhogan.com/portaboothArticle.shtml

    They are easy and cheap to make and work great. We made one at my office to cancel out air conditioning noise. Now we can do voice-over work at our desks!

  • Anonymous

    Hi,
    I have had the same problem with the Yeti Pro recording too quietly. I tried your technique mentioned in the article but it didn’t seem to work. Could you describe exactly how you made it work properly? I am running OSX and I have checked all volumes etc in Audio Utility and Garageband. All are maximum, but the mic is still very quiet and mush less sensitive than my standard Yeti.
    Cheers

  • Death of Cool

    I have the non-pro USB version of this microphone and I absolutely love it. It’s the best direct-to-computer mic I have ever owned – easily, and then some. I can’t recommend it enough. Hence, why I am doing so here too.

  • Anonymous

    I use the Yeti exclusively for all of my news wraps on Public News Service that regularly air on 450 Clear Channel stations nation-wide. I highly recommend it.
    Les Coleman
    Florida Correspondent
    http://www.publicnewsservice.org

  • jdollak

    I’ve been using the non-pro for roughly a year, and it’s been far more reliable than any other mic I’ve used.
    The only problem I’ve had is that it’s too efficient. I’ve had a few instances where I’ll be miking a guitar right next to it on my desk, and it’s able to pick up the sound of my dog’s nails on the floor on the other side of the house. Usually a condenser will wipe those out.
    I’ve had no problems with miking my amp either.

  • RikF

    good to hear! I’ve the non-pro version currently winding its way from Amazon and stuck in the holiday weekend post. It’s destined to be put to work on voice-overs for classes and some videos. One question for Death and jdollak – have you ever tried using it to record something you’re videoing and then syncing the results?

    • sdmikev

      I’ve been interested in using something like that to record my guitar amp. For myself, no one else needs to hear that, but I would like it to sound good. Any pointers on an easy set up for doing such a thing?
      I’ve seen the standalone Zooms as well that record direct to SD card. That seems the most simple, but not sure of the quality..

  • Douglas Rushkoff

    I’ve been eyeing this too, though everyone I respect in radio is begging me to buy a regular studio microphone and run it through my M-Audio delta card as a pre-amp/mixer.

    My intent is to record stuff suitable for FM radio broadcast. You think this thing is up for the challenge? I mean, would Art Bell use one of these?

    • Cigarsam

      Only if aliens bring it to him. ;-)

    • RescueSociety

      No – this mic is not appropriate for radio, or any voice application where you don’t have perfect acoustics. Do what the pros do and use a dynamic mic. Look for a used RE-20, SM7B or Rode Procaster in this price range. They reject noise much, much better than a condenser like this and are fully pro (the Rode isn’t but it’s USB if you want that).

      The only FM DJ’s using condensers are in studios where noise is not a problem. You’ll save yourself a world of pain with a pro-dynamic. It’s what they’re designed to do and they sound gorgeous (think NPR, BBC and Jesse Thorn).

      Downside? Most need a pre-amp with a lot of gain. A USB pre-amp with an XLR on one end and a USB cable on the other is only just useable. You’re best off with a cheap mixer with a lot of clean gain.

    • Avi Solomon

      I use the Audio-Technica AT2020 USB Condenser USB Microphone to record narrations for video tutorials and it does a great job. It’s also on sale at Amazon:)
      http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-USB-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001AS6OYC

  • Anonymous

    I like this, cuz maybe im getting old, but im suspicious of the USB mics.

    I notice it doesnt have a cool rubberband spiderweb shockmount. For 250$, you could get something more “pro” than this one.

    Cool for podcasters though, cuz it will sit nicley on the desktop.

  • Rob Beschizza

    I honestly don’t know if it’s good enough for broadcast-pro use. However, if it’s set up right and your acoustics are good, it’ll sound better than a poorly configured regular studio mic in a room with the AC on and someone eating spaghetti in an echo chamber six feet away.

  • BT Murtagh

    “It is more expensive, however, and the differences will be most clear to musicians rather than, say, casual podcasters.”

    So does anyone have a recommendation for an affordable casual podcaster’s mike?

  • Anonymous

    “It looks just like a Telefunken U-47…” -FZ, Joe’s Garage

  • Anonymous

    rob, do you happen to know if it works with linux?

    i bought a usb microphone once that had alsa support, but the driver couldn’t access the software mixer, so i only use it with the macbook only. but the next microphone has to work with my main audio machine again.

    .~.

    • mjd

      I’ve been using the non-Pro Yeti on Debian GNU/Linux for over a year, and can confirm that it Just Works. Plus it looks really cool.

      Re: podcasting and background noise, I prefer to think of it as “atmosphere”.

    • pauldavis

      the first issue with working on linux is whether its a USB1 or USB2 device.

      if its USB1 then it will almost certainly Just Work, although as you noted, if it requires a specialized per-device app to tweak any on-board controls, you won’t get that (because the vendor hasn’t provided the app or the information to create the app).

      if its USB2, then it likely will not work. There is a USB2 audio class specification, but very few (literally 1 or 2) of the USB2 audio devices on the market have followed the specification. this means that every device needs its own driver (contrast with USB1 where a single driver works with all class compliant devices).

      superficially this looks like USB2, though there are a couple of USB2 audio devices that can fall back to USB1 and implement USB1 audio class compliant behaviour.

  • Anonymous

    Thanks Rob!