HOWTO clean LPs, DVDs, and CDs

 Workgroups Cml Opt307 Spr05 Chris R2 3

electron micrograph of vinyl groove by Chris Supranowitz

I've recently picked up several old vinyl LPs at thrift stores and garage sales. My musical taste is very eclectic, but these discs have one big thing in common: they're all filthy. Similarly, we have dozens of kids DVDs and CDs in our house coated in toddler goo that would almost certainly beat the adhesive that holds the tiles on the space shuttle. This weekend, I plan to brew up a cauldron of the cleaning solution used by the master preservationists at the Library of Congress. Or maybe I'll just go with Ivory dish soap, warm water, and an old t-shirt. Anyway, here's the LoC's recipe:

Preparation and Directions for Use

1. To prepare 4 L (~ 1 gal) of solution, place 2 mL of Tergitol™ 15-S-7 Surfactant into a suitable container (glass, stainless steel type 304 or 316, fiberglass-reinforced polyester, polyethylene, or polypropylene) and fill with deionized water. This results in a 0.05% solution.

2. Store the solution in a non-food refrigerator to avoid degradation and transfer what is immediately needed to a spray bottle for manual cleaning or other container for mechanized cleaning.

3. Store the pure Tergitol™ in its original container (preferably under nitrogen) and in a non-food refrigerator to avoid degradation that causes an undesirable color and odor.

4. To manually clean records, CDs, or DVDs manually, spray the solution onto the surface, and wipe with an eyeglass or other similar soft wipe to remove contaminants. ALWAYS FOLLOW CLEANING WITH A THOROUGH RINSING WITH DEIONIZED WATER TO REMOVE ALL TRACES OF DETERGENT: LEAVING DETERGENT ON THE OBJECT MIGHT FACILITATE DEGRADATION OF THE OBJECT. Finally, wipe the object dry using a soft, nonabrasive, lint-free cloth.

5. To clean records, CDs, or DVDs in a mechanized cleaner, place just enough solution into the cleaner reservoir so that fresh solution is used each day (or remove the solution every day and store in a non-food refrigerator). ALWAYS FOLLOW CLEANING WITH A THOROUGH RINSING WITH DEIONIZED WATER TO REMOVE ALL TRACES OF DETERGENT: LEAVING DETERGENT ON THE OBJECT MIGHT FACILITATE DEGRADATION OF THE OBJECT. Finally, wipe the object dry using a soft, nonabrasive, lint-free cloth. This last hand-drying step may not be necessary if a record-cleaning machine with a vacuum arm is being used.

"Cylinder, Disc and Tape Care in a Nutshell"


  1. Hey, chemistry know-it-alls: What alternatives to this surfactant are cheap and easy to obtain, preferably useful for other around-the-house projects?

    1. I have a little story here that relates. A few years ago I picked up an old (D3) Discwasher brush LP cleaner. I used to have one when I was younger, and it always did a good, quick job on my records. You put a few drops of the special cleaning fluid on the brush and gently brush it over the rotating record to clean it.

      In doing research on this, I found that the newer Discwasher versions were reviled by modern users; apparently the company was sold and the product became inferior. Both the brush was worse (it was a stiff, scratchy corduroy instead of the soft microfiber) as well as the new cleaning fluid. My new/old brush was in pretty good shape, but the little bottle of cleaning fluid was almost empty. What to do?

      In my web crawls, I found a great forum thread (from 2006) in which an enterprising collector was able to reverse engineer the lost secret D3 cleaning recipe by tracking down the cleaning fluid patent submitted by the Discwasher company. More importantly, he did it with household cleaning supplies.

      Here’s the link:

  2. Sounds like an interesting project. Apparently you have a source for pure Tergitol (and a graduated cylinder handy to measure out 2ml — not to mention pure nitrogen to purge the left over Tergitol)?

    Incidentally, “Tergitol” sounds like a cartoon name to me. If a Dow data sheet did not exist for it, I would expect step 1 to conclude with “stir briskly with an Unobtainium whisk”.

    1. I was kinda joking, as their brew seems a bit overkill for my needs, but I see how that didn’t come across. Updated my post. HOWEVER… I do have a graduated cylinder.

  3. Store the solution in a non-food refrigerator to avoid degradation

    Other than people who work in laboratories, do people normally have access to “non-food refrigerators”? You’d have to be quite the audiophile to invest in a separate refrigerator at home for this.

    1. I left off the only use Ivory products that have sufracants, not all their dishwashing liquids are the same.

      1. All soaps and detergents are surfactants. A surfactant is basically just something that lowers the surface tension of water, allowing goop to be more easily dissolved in it.

        1. Technically you’re correct, but many dishwashing and other cleaning products have added ingredients that are not good for vinyl. I cannot get the exact phrase on the Ivory product at the moment, but it’s marked differently than the other products with scents and added degreasers.

          I have DJed Jamaican music for 20+ years and I need to be an expert at cleaning vinyl. I’m not an audiophile so my objective is to clean so the vinyl is playable. Plain Ivory dishsoap and tap water (NYC provided) work best for me. No residues and 90% of the dirt off. Machines and vaccums are nice, but I’d rather spend the money on vinyl.

  4. I have cleaned LPs and 45s quite well with a combination of dish soap, tap water, and a Record Doctor vacuum (you can use similar models like the Nitty Gritty or VPI, etc.)

    I know many will balk at using dish soap, but A.) noted 78rpm collector Joe Bussard uses Ivory soap on his own priceless 78s, and B.) it seems like a lot of the talk regarding how to clean records is based more on superstition and guesswork than actual trial and error or scientific evidence.

    I would not use dish soap without the Record Doctor vacuum, and that’s important. Whether soap residue on the vinyl degrades it or not is debatable, but I would prefer to have no residue of any kind on the vinyl, and the Record Doctor really does suck it all out of the grooves. I tried using just a Discwasher brush and store-bought cleaning fluid, with no change in sound quality (on a quiet Brian Eno ambient LP), then tried the store-bought liquid in combination with the Record Doctor (again with not much difference), and finally with dish soap, which made a HUGE difference. I avoid soap with lemon juice since it may be more harsh. I would prefer using non-ionized or distilled water, but so far tap water has been OK (and I’m lucky to have decent tap water.)

    With this method I have brought nearly unlistenable LPs and 45s covered in mold back to life, including some rare African pressings that were used for reissues.

  5. Record cleaning machines are wonderful. Anyone with lots of vinyl needs one.

    Most models are carried by Needle Doctor at: . They don’t carry the Keith Monks machine, though. It can be found lots of places but this is the only one I see that quotes prices online:

    Find one that meets your needs and get it. Need cheap? Nitty Gritty is probably the right way to go. Need to accomodate 16″ records? Keith Monks. Convenience? Find one of the two-sided vacuum-type cleaners.

    You just can’t understand how wonderfully quiet vinyl can be until you start using one.

  6. Dawn dish soap, a steady stream of tepid water from the tap, a piece of old soft t-shirt(kept handy for the occasion), put record onto the dish rack, voila! You could get nutty with a damp chamois to dry it if you want to do it up right.
    Don’t make yourself crazy over it, it’s just a record, it’ll be fine.
    Not too warm with the water, the cheap ones from the 70’s will go all bendy.

  7. There are LP devotees who thrive on this cleaning stuff, like a religious rite or something. I used to be one of them. I could hear a difference between the LP and the CD of a given master, and I thought the LP sounded more “musical.”

    Over the years I developed a cleaning and maintenance routine. Most of my LPs (I have thousands) I bought new and treated with Sound Guard or Last. I’ve always kept them in their sleeves when I wasn’t playing them. So for me, record cleaning has been mostly removing dust. I reserve my last remaining clean Discwasher for that duty. Just breathe on the record and run it under the DW.

    The problem is used and borrowed LPs. I don’t want to gunk up my stylus. I used to use a Discwasher to clean them, too, but it got grimy after a while, and then it seemed to me that it was probably doing more harm than good.

    So I moved to cleaning “foreign” LPs with distilled water. I add a few drops of contact lens wetting solution as a surfacant. A soft-bristle paintbrush gets the stuff well down into the grooves without scarring them. Then I flood the disc with more of the solution, and dry it on a soft terrycloth towel (haven’t had much trouble with lint).

    If the record is really bad, I start with a round of very highly diluted vegetable-oil-based dish detergent, rinse with tap water, dry, and then go on to the above step. I suppose I should use distilled water for the rinse, but I’m rinsing it off again with the distilled water mixture anyway, so I don’t sweat it.

    So far it seems to work OK.

    Thing is, though, I’m losing interest in this whole deal. I don’t know whether my ears are aging or I’m just tired of fussing with LPs. Call me a backslider in the LP religion if you will, but nowadays I’m more inclined to just buy the CD if it’s available. If not, I’ll eventually make a digital dub of the LP so I don’t have to fuss with it any more.

  8. Jeez. To those of you without non-food fridges, I have to ask:

    What do you keep your harvested organs in?

    1. Jeez. To those of you without non-food fridges, I have to ask:

      What do you keep your harvested organs in?

      In the food fridge, obviously, if I’m too full to devour them fresh-n-steaming on the spot.

      1. Yep — ya know your boyfriend’s got fun roommates when you reach for a coke and notice the bottle of goat’s blood next to the 12 pack.

  9. i’ll stick with the tepid tap water and the dish rack. you’d be surprised at how nicotine brown some of the rinse water will be.

  10. Anyone who gets DVDs from Netflix will have learned long ago how to clean them. And disinfect them.

      1. Dish soap, warm-ish water, and a t-shirt, right?

        Dish soap, cool water and a paper towel. You can just fold the towel over it and press to get it dry; no rubbing required.

    1. I use squeakstar’s approach for cleaning DVDs. As for disinfecting them … are you Howard Hughes?

      1. Either you don’t have Netflix or you’re luckier than me. The DVDs sometimes come with food or body fluids on them.

        1. I guess I’m lucky, though I’ve gotten some dirty ones — usually animated movies.

    2. Uh, for a start to solving the cleaning/disinfecting problem, quit renting those DVDs with David Ducovny.

  11. I’ve always been told that on records you should wipe in a circular motion – following the grooves. On a CD or DVD you do not wipe in a circular motion but in a straight line from the inner disc to the outer edge.

  12. Any serious audiophile knows better than to clean his records like this. No soap puns intended – it’s a slippery slope towards actually listening to them, and since you can’t observe a system without changing it, listening to records unavoidably damages them.

  13. I’ve heard of (and seen) people using wood glue to clean LPs. The idea is you spread on a thin layer, wait for it to dry, then peel off the film. Any dust and debris lodged in the grooves is bound to the film and lifted away. Never tried it myself, but I have a bottle of wood glue sitting on a shelf for this.

    1. # 25 PVA craft adhesive not wood glue.
      #47 Isopropanol is fine, add maybe 5% water. Not for use on 78’s.

  14. Thank you for posting this.
    Now I can finally get all that dried bubble gum off my opera records!

  15. Windolene/Mr Muscle window cleaner on DVD/CDs works fine.

    My vinyl never used to get that greasy (who the hell are you letting handle it?) and the best way to clean out the dust was:

    1, blow of excess dust,

    2, gently wipe with soft lint-free cloth

    3, play the damn thing – any remaining dust gathers on the needle.

    4, put the record back in its sleeve when finished listening

    5, avoid disappearing up own arse

    Going back to the ‘need to clean’ issue – how come someone can get so precious about the ‘correct’ cleaning medium but yet can let their prized vinyl get so dirty?

  16. What is this. . .Tergitol?

    Does it have for real and for true maximum cleaning capabilities? Is it powerful?

    Powerful enough. . .to SEE THROUGH TIME!?!?

  17. Poster has a clear case of OCD.

    Also, not that I care particularly, but paper towels are made of wood or fibre pulp and will eventually grind down material such as glass or plastic. My ophthalmologist ex-girlfriend informed me of this factoid 20 years ago. She now has two children, and was kind enough to informed me, after we split up, that I was rubbish in bed.

    1. Too true. The only kind of paper that’s suitable for highly polished surfaces is lens paper. A T-shirt is far kinder to your cherished CDs or DVDs than a paper towel.

    2. That’s why you don’t rub. You just blot. No friction – no erosion.

  18. Bottom line: put a few drops of some clear liquid soap in a quart of warm water. For other cleaning tasks, like cleaning laptop and computer surfaces, dilute 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water.

  19. I always use rubbing alcohol and cotton swabs. works wonders. no scratches and clean CLEAN records.

  20. I usually clean my media with an Illudium Pu-36 explosive space modulator. But YMMV.

    1. I know you’re joking, but it reminds me of the fact that people do (did?) use polonium-210 to clean their records.

      There used to be brushes available that contained Polonium or another radioactive source to ionize the air, which reduces the static charge on the record when you brush it, making it easier to remove dust.

  21. WARNING: Using the wrong solvent on older (shellac) records can destroy them quite rapidly.

    Admittedly, these folks have products they’re pushing — but they seem to be right on as far as the advice they’re giving:

  22. I know in my many many years of DJ’ing I was the only person I ever saw run a DW brush over their rekkids before each one was played. In the studio, maybe a few did. Usually I would step up to cue my first track and remove a sweater from the needle, basically the nights worth of debris cleaned from everyone’s vinyl. Then I would clean my first track, and repeat for the other side. If you do this before each play then put ’em back in the sleeve they stay pretty clean. Some of the needles on those performance cartridges get in there pretty deep and do a great job of cleaning for you.

    Once summer I opened for Jeff Mills who was a notorious record abuser. He would take each record off the TT and drop it on edge to the floor behind the booth in a rapidly forming pile that would grow and grow until it collapsed and slid into where he was standing, at which point one of the many wincing DJ’s, or a backstage staff, would rush out and move them to the side. Otherwise he was seen to shove them away with his foot.

    In the heat of the spin it’s easy to treat your vinyl like crap, but unlike Jeff Mills I rarely got 4 copies of each for free so I never could do that! Ahh, those were the days… fog machine juice, ashes, crap falling from the ceilings, sweat drops. How did my cuts ever survive?!

    1. Awwwwww… I still have the brush from my dad’s stereo. A man who worked with miniature railroads, photography, and military miniatures – he NEVER let his l.p.s get dusty! (I promise, I’m well trained. I also wear my seatbelt, and clean my brushes out before any paint can dry on them.)

  23. This may sound a bit strange, but I use Febreze. It’s milder than a lot of the actual products sold as l.p. cleaners on the market, and it’s designed to attract dust from crevices. I happened upon it when I received at stack of records that had survived some basement flooding at a family home and needed a thorough cleaning.

    With a bad dust allergy, Febreze something I always have on hand, and you can buy it at any grocery store. I just dampen an old t-shirt or flannel (I always keep ’em for cleaning) put paper down on the turn table to protect it and spin away! For those who scream “no alcohol on l.p.s!” a lot of the expensive industry products contain alcohol as an ingredient, and I always rinse in mildly warm water before putting the record away.

  24. I see no mention of using dilute alcohol, isopropyl or grain, as a cleaner in this thread, but I do see alot of such comments on the web. Comments?

  25. Audio Amateur magazine issue 4/1981 had a recipe for a concoction to clean LPs similar to the wood glue trick, but presumably safer for the vinyl…

    In a double boiler, pour 7/8 cups distilled water.

    Add 1 3/4 ounces (by weight) fully hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol
    stirring to avoid clumping.

    Heat in the double boiler while stirring constantly.

    The mixture should rise to about 200F and change to a clear or slightly milky liquid. Keep stirring til powder is fully dissolved.

    add more distilled water to bring up to 1 full cup and allow to cool to a honey-like consistency.

    Optional: before it cools, add 2 teaspoons of glycerine, a few drops of Kodak PhotoFlo 200 and up to 5 teaspoons denatured alcohol (or some good vodka). Do NOT use mineralized methylated spirits. Keep tightly sealed in a glass jar or bottle.

    With the record on your turntable, use a soft nylon artist’s paint brush (1/2 inch wide works well)to evenly paint the groove area on one side. Spinning helps achieve an even coat.

    Too much will take a very long time to dry, but let it dry at least overnight.

    To remove, apply a 6 inch length of masking tape from the inner groove extending past the outer edge of the record.

    Using the tape as a handle, peel off the coating. If it doesn’t all come off in one piece, gently coax the stragglers with more tape.

    If you used too little it will tear when you try to remove it. Just re-apply, let dry and try again til you get the hang of it.

  26. As best I can tell, this seems to be the ultimate wood-glue-to-clean-vinyl post. (I spent far too much time one day reading far too many recursively referential posts after reading a comment mentioning wood glue on a post by Mark a while back; fortunately, I eventually made it to the link referenced earlier.)

    One of these days[fn1] I hope to liberate the several thousand LPs I have mothballed and digitize a few hundred either unknown, unpopular, or unpleasant enough never to have been dragged across the digital threshold for love or money. Top priority are (1) J. F. [Jack] Murphy’s self-titled debut and (2) the knock-off non-Barry Sadler “Ballad of the Green Berets” LP (thank heaven for mechanical rights!) that includes a Viet Name-specific rewrite of “The Battle Hyme of the Republic” containing the immoral — er, immortal — stanza:

    The bodies of the Commies
    Lie a-mouldering in the dew.
    We will frighten
    Big Red China
    ‘Til she trembles
    Through and through.
    They call us the aggressor,
    But they themselves
    The aggressor true.
    Our truth is marching on!

    Both were played to death by my ‘tween incarnation — as I recall, I managed to splatter the Murphy platter with dozens of tiny, pigment-laden turpentine droplets by cleaning a paintbrush too near the GE Jaguar — and I suspect only a deep-cleansing, wood glue facial could make either even vaguely listenable.
    1. That is, just as soon as I find steady employment; file close to a decade’s worth of new or amended federal and state tax returns in hopes a quarter of whatever I do manage to earn will stop going to repay The Man for debts incurred by the ex-girlfriend/business partner who locked me out of my office, drained the accounts, and fled overseas; and
    boil five storage spaces down into one, so I’ll no longer pay twice as much on storage as I do on rent… .

    1. Dr. Maz, I am ready when the time comes to excavate the storage facilities. I have seen/heard hints of what lies within.

  27. has anyone invented this yet: you scan the grooves of old records to create a high resolution 3D model, then “fix” the areas that are causing the popping and scratchiness. Once done, the record can be 3D printed into vinyl, or played via virtual needle.

    All old 78s should be fixed this way so we can hear what they sounded like when pristine. Much better than digital sound correction, which always wipes out a lot of soul with the scratches.

    1. has anyone invented this yet: you scan the grooves of old records to create a high resolution 3D model, then “fix” the areas that are causing the popping and scratchiness

      Short answer, yes, although I don’t know if it’s commercially available. There’s also the laser-needle system, which is effectively the same thing, although it doesn’t so much “scan” in the sense of creating a digital file–it just pipes the raw quasi-analog information into the speakers, I think.

      However, that is, literally, digital sound correction, and what you’re describing is just a slightly more complicated way of doing exactly the same kind of manipulation that’s already routinely done. You “see” the pop or the hiss, and you “fix” it by fudging this bunch of 0s and 1s or that one.

      It can be done better or worse, just like a record can be more or less well preserved. If you miss the “soul” of vinyl, you might have gotten a poorly remastered CD, or you might like those pops and clicks more than you know.

  28. If you’re going the wood glue route, Titebond II is really the best for it. Takes a day to dry completely, but it does get 90% of the dirt and grime out. The best thing to do is to squeeze the glue out from the inner “dead wax” to the outer edge, making a tight, even spiral and then use a credit card to spread the glue as the turntable spins. Then take the glue covered vinyl and place it on an upside down drink tumbler, making sure it’s perfectly centered on the tumbler’s bottom. I place the glued vinyl under a ceiling fan to set the glue quicker.

    For general cleaning, I have 2 soft bristled paint brushes and 3 soft microfiber sponges (the kind used for washing cars). I use a solution containing 1 part Medical grade Isopropyl alcohol to 4 parts distilled water with one or two drops of Palmolive Pure + Clear dish liquid. The water must be distilled. Tap water contains solids that will go into the grooves. Put the solution into a squirt bottle.

    I apply the solution to the vinyl as the turntable spins, making a ring on the recorded surface. It’s important to make sure nothing wet gets on the inner label. I use a soft bristled paint brush to distribute the water and loosen any debris left there. Then I use the first sponge to soak up the solution from the vinyl. Then, I use distilled water only and use a second brush to distribute the water onto the vinyl. The water will bead up on the vinyl, so I spend a bit more time on this step. The second sponge is then used to soak up that solution. I then use the 3rd sponge to gather any left over liquid.

    The biggest thing to remember is to use the brushes and sponges lightly but firmly on the vinyl surface. Don’t dig in. If the bristles of the brush spread, that’s okay. If they bend inward or outward, you’re doing it too hard. It’s also best to use an old turntable platter for cleaning.

  29. All detergents are surfactants.

    So are many laxatives.

    Lint free cloths are obtainable via superannuated t-shirt or (if you can’t bear to part with that old ZZ Top treasure) painter’s cloths from the Depot.

    Some things can’t be saved. I picked up a yard sale copy of The Man Who Sold the World that sounds like David Bowie was chewing playground sand.

  30. For cleaning vinyl, I recommend either a blowtorch or a barrel fire. Once vinyl has been played 20 to 50 times (depending on how carefully), that’s all it’s good for … the high end at that point is almost entirely the result of distortion and dust. (Not a criticism of people who like it that way. Some blues just isn’t right without it.)

  31. When I was college, I was DJ’ing a lot, and the kind of hip-hop stuff where you have your hands all over the records a lot, so my LP’s were constantly filthy. Somebody tipped me off to this crazy little record shop on Rt. 1, near New Brunswick, NJ that had a record cleaning machine. It looked like a jukebox, you paid a buck, it made some noises, and the LP’s came out sparkling new. The machine looked sort of homemade, and I’ve never seen another one like it.

    1. Ja!

      SUPERB! last time i searched, this wasn’t on the tubes!

      there goes my afternoon…

  32. Ivory leaves debris behind. Dr. Bronner’s Castille Baby soap used to be very good, but they have reformulated it now so that it leaves debris.

    Wash a glass slide with it, then look at the slide with reflected light and see if it’s clean or not.

    If you’re going to hand-clean or ultrasonically clean, laboratory surfactants like Tergitol are the way to go. Alconox, De-Contam,
    and Fisher Laboratory Cleaner are all basically identical and all work very well.

    The thing about the stuff that Ivory and other similar soaps leave behind is that they can be washed off. So it is very common to use something like this for an aggressive cleaning of a very dirty record, and then afterward do a more thorough cleaning with a vacuum machine.

    The vacuum machine does not clean dirty records. It takes a clean record and makes it a very, very clean record. If you put a dirty record on the vacuum machine it will make the pads on the machine dirty and now you’re back where you started.

    Both hand cleaning AND the vacuum machine are important, and for different reasons.

    The vacuum machine solutions tend to be a bit more aggressive… they have stronger surfactants and they have alcohol in them. This is fine because they are on the record for such a short period of time. You can use solutions in the vacuum machine that are not appropriate for hand washing.

    Scott Dorsey
    Kludge Audio
    Williamsburg, VA.

  33. I think wet forms of cleaning are really a hiding to nothing – as is evident from the post, you have to do it in a virtually sterilised environment. Otherwise dust tends to stick or collect during drying. Wet cleaning also doesn’t really get out the gunk at the bottom of the grooves.

    When I bought my first Thorens deck, I got told a two stage cleaning regime from the audiophile running the shop which I’d like to share (since nobody else seems to be onto this) and since then I have never looked back.

    1. He gave me a piece of Linn “green paper” to clean the stylus with. Basically this is a fine abrasive surface on a thin green flexible plastic surface, about the size of a stamp. You stroke the stylus diamond with it before setting it down on the record (remembering to turn down the volume on the amp first!!). It polishes the stylus, which then cuts deeper into the crap at the bottom of the groove and digs it up onto the stylus.
    After the first track, the stylus is so full of dust (even if it wasn’t before), you’ve got to take it off and remove with a little cleaning brush before continuing, otherwise the stylus can jump out and skate across the record. So the stylus cleans the record for you, and when polished with the magic paper, it picks up an AMAZING amount of stuff you didn’t realise was there. You have to play each side of the record several times, cleaning each time and listening as the background noise fades away and all the nuances of the sound encoded in the bottom of that groove become audible again. After a few plays, the record is clean, clear and sounds better than ever. When you’ve cleaned your entire collection (there’s no better way – just clean them by listening to them!) then you just need the green paper every couple of weeks for a quick polish.

    2. The second component is Silly Putty. Buy some for a dollar and stick a coin-sized blob next to your stylus arm in a position so you can just “dip” the stylus tip into the putty before putting it on the record. This gets dust and stuff off the sides of the stylus which the green paper doesn’t get to. Change the putty regularly as it gets gunked up.

    That’s it – don’t touch the record, let a clean diamond do the work for you while you listen. Absolute genius. Linn deck owners swear by this method – I only have a meager Thorens, but it works just as well!

    Linn green paper lasts forever – I still use a piece I’ve had since the mid 90s. It’s difficult to get hold of, but I’ve heard it’s the same as jewelers polishing paper for diamonds. Another audiophile-touted alternative to Silly putty is a piece of melamine foam, such as Mr Minute Magic Eraser. I haven’t tried it myself imagine it does much the same job.

    Give the method a go – I guarantee you’ll never go back to brushing and washing again.

    1. That method works without the Linn paper too. Either way it exposes the stylus to debris that will degrade the stylus (even with Linn paper wipings) and eventually damage the vinyl. If you want to clean like that, you need a stylus set aside for “cleaning plays” only. Although it doesn’t make much sense from an audiophile standpoint to clean with that method since it involves potential damage to the vinyl from the debris on the stylus.

      Now if the moderator can fix the spambot post with “i paid just $66.66 for a technics 1200d turntable…”

  34. Thank you for recommending that any and all detergents, cleaners or other products be cleaned off with a final rinse of pure distilled water. As a record store owner I have seen the D4/LAST/tap water/Emitex/etc residue DESTROY many of the records I encounter. If I see liquid residue on a record I will NOT buy it because of the poor chances of it cleaning up to saleable condition. They may look good after a cleaning, but they sound atrocious with a lot of “static” from the gunk.

    A further recommendation is to remove the old style thick poly-lined sleeves that A&M and London used in the early 70’s. They appear to be degrading and damaging vinyl. The thin poly-lined “Smithsonian” sleeves are affordable and appear to be stable.

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