I’ve heard that the weather on Everest is so stable that you can wait for days, nay, weeks, without fear of death-dealing shifts in local climate conditions.  Of course, these people invented this stuff for NO REASON. You know best.

I’ve heard that the weather on Everest is so stable that you can wait for days, nay, weeks, without fear of death-dealing shifts in local climate conditions.  Of course, these people invented this stuff for NO REASON. You know best.

Tenzing was the most experienced climber on the summit team, having participated in 6 previous attempts on the mountain. However, in his biography, “Tiger of the Snows,” he acknowledged that Hillary was first. Hillary confirmed the assertion following Tenzing’s death in 1986.

Given the political issues at play in the first ascent of Everest, there was tremendous pressure for both men to declare that they were the “first” person on the summit. The Indian and Nepalese wanted to claim it was Tenzing, the UK were for Hillary (quelle surprise). Instead, both men decided to keep mum about the issue for a few decades.

The famous photo of the lone climber on the summit is of Tenzing and was taken by Hillary. Hillary claimed it was because he was unsure that Tenzing knew how to operate a camera. Tenzing claimed that he offered, but was rebuffed. Whatever, they were both probably so fried at that point that it is impressive that they remembered to take pictures at all.

At the end of the day though, who was “first” of a two-man team is not reflective of the effort or work that each man put into the ascent. For example, one could have led the majority of the day’s climb, breaking trail and making countless, minute route-finding decisions, only to cede the lead for the last hundred yards because of exhaustion.

Note: the proceeding paragraph does not apply if you’re Hermann Buhl.

I do not believe sherpas climb to the summit.

The first person to reach the summit was a Sherpa.

Stop adding light to the scene, redirect the light you have.

The altitude means thinner air, less dust & other junk between you and the sun… the sky can be a deep, dark blue, pretty naturally beautiful.

I also contend that photographs suitable for inclusion in “Outside” can be taken with available light, small (but high quality) cameras, lenses and bit of talent and creativity. Why these guys need all that other stuff is beyond me. They’re in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Photograph that, not each other.

Edit: oh it looks like quite a few do.

Never mind the Sherpas that just hauled up a friggin IMAX camera, battery packs, and enough film and lighting equipment to make that summit shot really resonate.