A tiny spy-gadget audio recorder that isn't junk

It's nice to see Sony still making weirdly specific high-end gadgets such as the TX800 [Sony.com; Amazon has it in white], even if $240 is a lot of sticker shock for a voice recorder. It's tiny, about 4cm-square, and comes with a corresponding remote control. The fit and finish are clearly in a league above the spy-gadget junk moldering in my drawer; it's in the same lineup as the bigger, cheaper UX560 that's the de rigeur voice recorder among reporters who are too fancy to sully their pockets with something by Olympus. There's built-in storage, iOS and Android management apps and AI noise reduction, but two sharp limitations that give me pause: it requires proprietary Sony headphones to monitor locally, and doesn't broadcast the audio to the remote.