Jack Baker was bodyboarding at Sydney Australia's Cape Solander when a big backwash wave launched him into the sky. Fortunately, he suffered only from a burst lung and is now recovering.
"I even said to the photographer who was in the water: 'this backwash is going to kill someone.' As this wave came towards me, I took off and as I got in it was real deep, I was already going too fast, I attempted to eject hoping it would send me back through the wave," he told SurferToday.
"Instead of ejecting, I got smashed by the wave, and suddenly I was in the air just falling. I had already got kicked about so hard in the waves so as I came back down I was dizzy and I didn’t know whether I was in the water or up in the air. But when I hit the water that woke me up."
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John Severson, the iconic figure of surfing media, has died at age 83. His 1961 film Big Wednesday is arguably the greatest of the early surf films, part of a lifetime of innovations in surf media. Read the rest
Nuno Dias shot this absolutely insane surfing footage that looks more like a snowboarder out in front of an avalanche than a surfer on a wave. Read the rest
Yes, Destination Isolation
has some lovely footage of Asher Pacey's surfing. But what make it great is "Pip, Pip Yeah" by Indonesian girl group Dara Puspita. Read the rest
Pro surfer Mitch Parkinson makes surfing barrels look relaxing in this gorgeous montage. Owen Milne cut together this beautiful footage he shot with Lachlan McKinnon and John Wiley. Read the rest
Photographer Chris White takes readers behind the scenes of making his surf photography book Dark Light. Read the rest
Since hydrofoil surfing was introduced, Kai Lenny has been experimenting with boards and techniques to the point that he can go out in the open ocean and glide across swells for miles without having to compete for waves. Read the rest
In 1971, Australian filmmaker Paul Witzig released his fourth surf movie Sea of Joy, celebrating the rise of the short boards. To score the film, Witzig enlisted Sydney band Tully, best known at the time as the backing band for the Australian production of the psychedelic musical Hair. Now, the good people at Anthology Recordings have reissued Tully's "Sea of Joy" soundtrack on vinyl. Here's what they say about the release:
Like many surfers and non-surfers alike, Witzig had been mesmerised by Tully's concert performances. By the time he finished filming his latest surfing epic, Evolution, the sound of Tully had changed though. Gone was the organ-dominated sound (the group was reputedly the first Australian band to use the Moog synthesiser), replaced by more gentle melodies, many with spiritual significance.
Recorded at EMI's Sydney studios, Tully's soundtrack material was subsequently edited for the album release into cohesive musical interludes. As such, they are held together in the album sequence by a magnetic musical flow that starts with “Sea Of Joy (Part 1)” (above) and ends with “Sea Of Joy (Part 2).” Vinyl edition features booklet liner notes by Aussie surf historian Stephen McParland and other-wordly ephemera.
Along with Tully's "Sea of Joy," Anthology Recordings have also reissued Tamam Shud's glorious soundtrack to Witzig's prior surf film, "Evolution."
Pitted. So pitted.
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Math teacher at Dana Hills High School in southern California, late 1970s. Pitted. So pitted.
Posted by the engaged educator's son on r/OldSchoolCool and making the rounds again. Read the rest
Last week, professional surfer Tom Dosland fell 40-feet down the front of a wave at Jaws, Maui's legendary surfing break. See the intensity of it all in the video above. Surfer magazine interviewed Dosland about the day:
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Before this wave, I had paddled for a few and pulled back because it wasn’t quite lining up right. But when this wave came toward me, I was totally committed. It looked like a sea monster rising out of the ocean when it came my way. But I was going. No matter what. So I flipped around and started paddling to get into it. You can’t really tell from the video, but there was some wind blowing spray up the face as I was about to drop in, which pretty much blinded me for a few seconds. I could only see out of one eye, and only partially. So I was pretty much just going off of feeling for that brief second before you drop in. Then, I was able to open up both my eyes, and I realized what was about to happen.
That’s crazy you couldn’t see. Can you walk me through what happened next?
Once I started to drop in and could open both my eyes, I instantly realized that this wasn’t going to end well for me. So I sort of hit the eject button hoping to make the best of it and penetrate. I was free-falling for a while. It felt like I jumped off a cliff. That’s when my leash stretched out all the way and flipped me over head-first.
Deus Ex Machina is a custom motorcycle and lifestyle brand launched by Australian surfers. Seen here is their "Red Pill" bike, built by Jeremy Tagand. The bike is based on a Kawasaki W650 that's been re-engineered from the re-jetted carbs all the way to the quick-release surfboard racks. I wish I knew how to surf. And ride a motorcyle.
Deux Ex Machina: The Red Pill (via Uncrate)
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On Saturday, Elinor Dempsey, 54, was surfing Morro Strand State Beach near San Luis Obispo, California when she noticed a great white shark approaching her. Read the rest
Street artist Hula paddles out to a secluded surface with supplies perched on his board, then paints an evocative mural in this lovely video
shot by by Aaron Austin. Read the rest
Xeni speaks with the stars of Love & Mercy about the music and magic inside Brian Wilson's mind. Directed by Bill Pohlad with a score by Atticus Ross, the film opens Friday, June 5, 2015.
Paige Alms may have caught the greatest big wave barrel ever by a female surfer, thanks to unusual wave angle and nearly nonexistent breeze.
Pitted. So pitted. (Directed by Chris Bryan.) Read the rest
This mesmerizing drone footage by Paul "The Bird" Borrud is like a 5-minute vacation. Perfect waves. Perfect locale. Perfect song (Mapusa). Below, some stills. Read the rest